Earlier this month, Storm Barra blew through Europe, sending the Old Continent's western flank into meltdown. Ireland, Scotland, England, Portugal, Spain, Portugal -- all got it real good. But during that time, it was a step-off only affair in France; too much grunt, too much current to stand up with the rest of Europe for a probable 'swell of the season so far' shout.
That was, until Barra blew itself out. And what was left, is everything above. Incredible conditions. “La Nord, it is where my heart is," said Sancho about the session, as Storm Barra was moving through. "I grew up surfing there, along with Miky Picon - so when we surf together, it’s always special. It was kind of messy at the start of the run of swell, and we didn’t want to push it too much.
"Those first few days must have been 12ft in the middle of the ocean with great texture. Then, it was on to the shorebreak, which was kind of maxed out. There was a really nice left in a current too – and we hadn't seen a bank like that in a long, long time. Just a few us from the hood out there, best vibe, great friends. It’s felt like Christmas.” Hit play above.