One wave, three barrels, and a quick glimpse at your hero Rizal Tandjung -- this may just be Othmane Choufani's greatest wave caught on camera.
You'll know Otho, aka Hotman, one of Morocco's finest exports and slayer of this absolute juggernaut (HERE) a few years ago. Since then, Otho's been travelling the globe, scoring at some of the heaviest waves on the planet. But there's always time for a Lombok swell, especially when the whole of Indo has been going nuts recently.
"So stoked about this wave," he told MSW. "I sat out there and waited for like, an hour for this to come to me, and when it did, it came straight to me. I paddled and on the first bottom turn, I saw my friend, and hero, Rizal Tandjung. After the first barrel I saw some of the Canggu groms and the second section was standing up. I was just screaming, I knew it was going to suck and hit the reef perfectly and then I saw the third section and it was just the cherry on the top. I have been dreaming of a wave like for ages that was mentally preparing for it the night before. So when it happened, I was just overwhelmed with happiness. I always try to wait my turn and show respect, and the ocean gave it back to me – the karma was real, I was just so happy."
Vid by Peter Frieden.