There's few people who would swim Jaws for a bodysurf session when that pot of liquid fervour eventually boils over. Kalani Lattanzi is one of them. And if the name rings a bell, it's because Kalani's been bodysurfing Nazare for years – there's even a movie about just that.
Anyway, Jaws went off yesterday for the opening day of the season. A swell like this has been on the hit list for Kalani for quite some time. This legend swam out from the rocks and went on to tap into perhaps one of the best waves we've ever seen bodysurfed out there.
“I got there around 2pm and swam from the rocks at the bottom,” Kalani tells MSW. “I've been waiting for a Jaws hand surf session for a while now, just waiting for the right swell.
“I got three waves before the in-and-out barrel. The first wave was almost the same as the one I made, I got to the foam ball but it just smashed me. I was having fun. The wave came for me and I made it [laughs]. That's it. We're going again right now!
“I was swimming the whole time, just a hand ski and flippers. I went to Jaws for waves, big, heavy waves. Didn't want to get in the way so if a surfer didn't make it, I would turn and go. Waiting in the spot for the wave – the wave that I got was amazing [laughs].”
And as for how it felt? “It was so crazy, when the set came, I could feel the current dragging my body to the peak. Easy to tell when the set's coming and I had to swim the complete opposite way and into it. Stuck in the lip, couldn't see but then I dropped and got a beautiful vision and saw everyone screaming in the channel like 'wooowww' [laughs] best barrel of my life."
And oh, we had to ask – on bodysurfing Jaws vs Nazare? “Jaws is easier,” Kalani said. “Nazare is crazy, it's all over the place, the canyon, the rock, the cliff, the wave can throw you. Jaws is more surfable – heavy, you got to be prepared, it's very different.”