A strong XL pulse is currently on track to rifle into Hawaii this weekend, setting off a whole host of those big wave spots and the jewel in the crown, Peahi.
The swell is expected to build on Saturday and peak in the afternoon – with a long period of around 20-21 seconds. Wave faces of around 3- to 35ft are expected with the odd 40-45 plus ft faces at some big wave spots. It's likely that most spots for mere mortals will be washing through by this time, mind.
“A low pressure system that spawned northeast of Japan on Wednesday has deepened explosively over the last 24 hours into a powerful system just south of the Aleutian Islands,” says MSW forecaster, Tony Butt.
“An area of storm-force winds on its southern flank is starting to generate a large, long-period swell which will propagate towards Hawaii in the next few days. The system is expected to expand into a complex area of low pressure occupying virtually the entire western half of the North Pacific, and generating further pulses of swell after the initial one.
“The first long-period forerunners are expected to arrive during Saturday with periods up to 24 secs initially and then levelling off to around 17 to 18 secs as the swell fills in with open-ocean wave heights of 10 to 12 feet. Wave heights will be biggest on Sunday, decreasing initially but then those extra pulses keep it more or less steady before finally losing its punch around mid-week.”
Cover shot, Ian Walsh knifing Jaws on the day of days.